Finished herringbone brick courtyard patio behind a Savannah home

Pavers that are still flat in five years.

Brick patios, walkways and driveways around Savannah. What holds up isn't the paver — it's the compacted base underneath it.

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Done properly

The real work happens below grade.

A paver patio that dips on one side or grows weeds through every joint almost always has the same problem: a thin base, poor compaction, or no edge restraint. The pavers look identical on install day.

We excavate to the depth the use calls for, compact in lifts, then close it out with staked edging and polymeric sand.

Excavation and a crushed-stone base compacted in lifts.
A deeper base under driveways than under a walkway.
Grade planned so water runs away from the house.
Edge restraint spiked around the whole perimeter.
Polymeric sand in the joints to slow weeds and ants.
Circle cuts, herringbone, checkerboard or a border course.
Circular brick patio laid in herringbone with a soldier-course border
Circular herringbone patio with a soldier border — every edge brick cut by hand

Where it goes

Three surfaces, three different bases.

Patio

Seating area, outdoor dining, or the floor under a pergola. Medium base, pitched away from the house.

Walkway & entry

From the street to the door, or the deck to the yard. Narrow, curved where it needs to be, with a border course to define the edge.

Driveway & pool deck

A much deeper base and a thicker paver for vehicle weight. Around pools, a contrasting border course and coping.

Paver & brick work

Reclaimed brick, modern pavers and patterns you don't see around here.

Crushed stone base being graded and wetted down before pavers are laid
The base: stone compacted, wetted and screeded before a single paver goes down

Step by step

Nobody sees this part. It's the part that matters.

1

Excavate & haul

We pull out dirt, old concrete or whatever's there, down to the depth the job calls for.

2

Base & compaction

Stone in lifts, wetted and compacted one layer at a time. This is what stops the dips.

3

Screed & lay

A screeded sand bed, and the pattern strung out with line so the courses run straight.

4

Cuts, edging & sand

Saw cuts at the edges, edge restraint spiked down, and polymeric sand vibrated into the joints.

While we're there

Your yard is still your yard.

Paver work moves dirt and makes a mess. We stage material in one spot and haul off every bit of leftover when we finish. If you also need fencing, a deck or a pergola, we sequence it into the same project.

Common questions

What people always ask.

Pavers or poured concrete?

Concrete costs less up front but repairs badly once it cracks. Pavers lift and reset section by section, and on sandy coastal soil they move without breaking.

Can you use old Savannah brick?

Yes — it's a lot of what we do. Reclaimed brick gets hand-sorted, the broken ones tossed, and the rest laid herringbone on a sand bed. It reads like it's been there a hundred years. See our brick patios & walkways →

Will weeds grow in the joints?

Far less with polymeric sand properly compacted and watered in. Some will show up eventually, but not the carpet you get from plain sand joints.

Can you lay over existing concrete?

Sometimes, if the slab is sound and level and the added height won't block a door. If it's cracked or sunken it has to come out — we do that too.

How long does it take?

A typical patio runs two to four days. A circle or a reclaimed-brick patio takes longer because every edge piece is cut by hand. A driveway takes longer still, because of the excavation and base.

Next step

Get the estimate. Costs nothing.

Send us a photo of the spot on WhatsApp and we'll tell you what pattern fits and what it would run.

Call 912.704.3843 Estimate form

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